After a morning of exploring fashionable Palermo Viejo, we conclude our day at Argentina's oldest polo club.
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January 16, 2009
Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, one of BA's oldest barrios, is the place to be on Sunday. That's when one of the city’s few Spanish-style plazas is taken over by antique dealers and buyers.
At the corner Plaza Dorrego Bar, we push our way to the lone empty table and order a matambre and queso (flank steak with provolone) sandwich that would make the best Philly cheesesteak sandwich recoil in shame.
Never mind “where’s the beef?” (answer: everywhere), the more important question is: what’s the beef? Since it’s not uncommon to partake of the sacred cow twice a day in BA, there are a host of cuts and organs we’re relatively unfamiliar with. But we’re game to try them all, including the chinchulin (chitterlings). The best part is the meat is cooked a la parilla—laid out on an adjustable grill and slow cooked over wood or charcoal, or al asador, where the meat is hung on cross-poles over a pit of glowing embers, just the way the gauchos like it.
We’ll come back to this bar later for the 50-cents-a-glass Malbec, served every hour, happy or otherwise.
In the meantime, there’s haggling to be done, at least with the outside vendors. The shops along Humberto 1 are more traditional, carrying antique gaucho belts, saddles, and Yerba Mate gourds covered in ornate silver. These dealers, unwilling to concede to the devaluation that occurred in 2002 that subsequently made BA such a bargain for us now, have maintained their pricing in US dollars (in 2002 their currency was pegged to ours).
Tonight, we dine at La Brigada, an old-fashioned parrilla in the neighborhood. The meat is so tender you can cut it with a spoon. In fact, that’s how the waiter removes it from the bone.
This is my idea of a steak out. What's yours?
Steak is life. The rest are just details.
My way of cooking steak: Score both sides of a cut of sirloin, sprinkle with salt, pepper and summer savory.... Heat an iron frying pan with olive oil, and (initially) brown the outside of the steak, flipping it over as needed at a high heat. Lower the temperature to medium (to allow the heat to penetrate). After a minute or so, (when the drippings just begin to reduce) pour a bit of merlot over the steak. (Expect a billow of steam). Flip the steak and repeat. After a few minutes, cut to see if the inside is gently pink. If so, it's done. Put the steak on your plate, pour the drippings on the steak, and (with crusty Italian bread) enjoy! (Side benefit: Your home will smell absolutely fantastic, with the smell of the spices, wine and meat permeating the air!)
P.S. I've experimented with both drier and sweeter wines... don't go there. Also, if you want to try oregano instead of summer savory, try it.... for my taste it's just a bit too strong and overpowers the other 'threads' in the gustatory tapestry.
I invented the above recipe and all blame or credit lies entirely on me.
MmmmHhmmmm. Though I've marinated many a beef tenderloin in Merlot or Marsala, lots of big ground black pepper, and a bit of garlic, I've never enRountered (John, you up yet? You may NEVer leave this place; what would I do?) DocNolan's method, and look forward to it. Truly, my mouth waters as I read.
Eve
Doc...cut into a steak to see if its done...SACRILEGE! Seriously though if I'd done that when I was working in the kitchen at Lonestar I would have been canned before I could get the steak off the grill.
It if it is a well aged, good cut of beef, the less you do to it the better. The flavor and texture of the meat should be the focus of the dish, not the preparation. I was a guest at a dinner at a local "upscale" steakhouse that bragged that they flash cook their steaks under extremely high heat "to seal in juices and flavor". The meat I had wasn't high quality to begin with, they served it on the plate that they had fired it on under the broiler and it was dirty, the steak was charred to a crisp on the outside and red rare on the inside and mostly tasted like the gas fired oven they used to cook it.
Working in the kitchen of a steak restaurant I learned that you always cook protein items over low heat, turn/touch as little as possible, season lightly on one side(too much salt will try out the meat), never poke it with a fork or cut it. They taught us to cook to temperature by time and touch-test, it is fairly accurate.
Meat should taste like meat, and if possible served medium rare.
You can learn a lot about a man by the way he orders his steak.
Man, I'm missing Omaha. The best steaks we have had since leaving there would not have measured up. Really good meat every time.
Serious Question MissIve; I like my Steaks obscenely Large, usually the biggest Prime Rib the place has got, Just a little past Beige on the outside, Warm, Pink and Juicy on the inside ....... What does that tell you??? Inquiring Minds Want To Know !!! For the Record, I enjoy a robust Red with my Steak, Zinfandel or a decent Shiraz ... Jeruselm Artichokes steamed in chicken broth and then stuffed with Black Currant Curd laced with fresh Dates on the side, and maybe some well buttered and creamed Grits with lots of White Pepper and little pieces of braised Asparagus all mixed in ... My Cholesterol is 102 and Triglycerides below 80 ... This NOT a combative Question, I am genuinely interested by your posting above .......
Stoney,
Steak is the ONLY thing I enjoyed about Omaha, NB. Didn't live there but one year - 1994. Oh MAN were the steaks good. Can't remember the name of the steakhouse down by the stockyard - may have been Stockyard Steaks, anyway my oh my I love steaks.
My husband grill a great steak. I like mine medium rare , baked potato and salad. Less seasoning is best, marinade is good.
INGREDIENTS
* 1 cup vegetable oil
* 1/2 cup soy sauce
* 1/3 cup red wine vinegar
* 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
* 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
* 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
* 2 tablespoons Dijon-style prepared mustard
* 1 onion, sliced
* 2 cloves garlic, minced
DIRECTIONS
1. In a medium bowl, combine the oil, soy sauce, vinegar, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, ground black pepper, mustard, onion, and garlic. Mix together well, and use to marinate your favorite meat.