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We like to think of Peterman’s Eye as an old fashioned interactive community newspaper (if there is such a thing) focused on travel and curiosities. Talk with us about today’s post. Tell us about the places you’ve been. Or take a trip using J. Peterman’s exclusive travel services (coming soon). Read more...



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I’m standing at Place de la Contrescarpe (counter-escarpment), which dates to the Middle Ages. The present-day square was once a no-man’s-land situated just outside the city’s fortified wall between the guard towers and an elevated moat that created another rise to an earthen wall. It was a popular place to congregate by day but a dangerous one at night.  In the 14th century, there were only three street lamps in all of Paris, none of them here. By the 16th century, police estimated that an average of 15 bodies were found each morning, killings from the night before (that puts Chicago in a better light).

I lunch at the Crêperie de la Mouffe where Breton yokes adorn the walls and crêpes are served on Quimper china. Of the 80 options on the menu, I select the savory wild mushroom crêpe made with buckwheat flour, followed by a sweet Grand Marnier crêpe for dessert.  I also order a bolet de cidre, some crisp, lightly fermented Normandy apple cider.

Hemingway lived around the corner at No. 74 rue Cardinal Lemoine with his first wife, Hadley, in a fourth floor flat. There, his new mentor, Gertrude Stein read “Up in Michigan.”

With Hemingway on the brain, I make my way to the eponymous bar at the Ritz. Entering the intimate room at the back of the hotel, I first notice is that the great man is hatless. The bartender, Colin, had purchased a certain long-billed “Hemingway Cap” for the bronze bust of the author that rests by the bar. Colin explains that the hotel’s new managing director didn’t quite care for the look.

This may be the only bar on earth where I’m willing to spend $20 for a cocktail, but the atmosphere and the Cerignola olives are worth it.

What are the limits of your extravagance?

J. Peterman

 

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Under Construction: Design Stuff & Member Commenting - Changes Soon.
6 Members’ Opinions
February 12, 2009 1:55 AM
Stage_2 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 JALOPKIN said...

For myself, I'll pay what I have to in order to get what I want, and at that, after at least some bargaining, to get the best deal possible ...  I avoid "Cheap" (as regards Quality, not Price) instinctively, and my personal tastes have always run to the Higher qualities rather than quantity ... In some instances, and depending upon what the item or service desired is, I will knowingly pay an outrageous Price ... but only if the item is very rare and/or very dear ... But under no circumstances will I pay outrageously for cheap, temporary, non-durable goods of any kind ... For my children, or someone meaningfully close to me, I will spend whatever I have to in order to make them happy and help them experience life ... Doesn't mean I won't still bargain for the best deal possible, but that I just won't bargain so furiously, perhaps ... And then, there are a few things, that are worth(to me)whatever the Price asked may be, especially if the item happens to be a moment of History or an object that the creation of is filled with the mments of someone's Life  ...... Not for snobbery, but to appreciate and be a part of the preservation of the thing ... But those items are like hair on a Frog ... very hard to find on most varieties ...(Yes Virginia, there  IS a Frog with actual hair growing out of/on its body, somewhere in the Congo)  

February 12, 2009 2:52 PM
790 10photoviews10videoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoFirst-videoHr-1Hr-5 MissIve said...

 I'm headed up to Petoskey next week for a hiatus, so Hemingway's been on the brain. I think of him a lot when I'm up there, especially standing in Walloon Lake, or drinking at City Park, elbows resting on the same bar that supported his, closer to his Nick Adams days. That part of my state is, you might say, thick with his scent.

http://www.cityparkgrill.com/index.php/component/morfeoshow/view/3

So when I read this post and thought about The Sun Also Rises, and how much that part of the world wears his mark, as well, fairly deeply, too, and also Key West, and Chicago . . .

I thought, God, that's a passionate man. A consumer in the truest sense of the word. For every book—a new wife and a new place, passionately consuming. He really became those places. Never a tourist. 

February 12, 2009 3:17 PM
Stage_2 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 JALOPKIN said...

Well Put MissIve ... Well Put indeed .......

February 12, 2009 4:19 PM
First-com luludemajorque said...

Seing 'eye to eye' with Jalopkin I will bend over backwards to create a worthy life experience for my children, and that often involves spending money. Hemingway evokes nostalgia for other times... I read For Whom the Bell Tolls (1939) as a teenager in Spain in the early 70's. It was my first Hemingway. Then came The Sun Also Rises. I read the Old Man and the Sea later. Another first at that time in my life was Somerset Maugham's The Razor's Edge. I reside in Miami, and like the idea that I live up the road from where Hemingway did with or without a hat :-) Another way I enjoy spending my money is on books at independent book stores.

February 12, 2009 4:24 PM
First-com luludemajorque said...

Have I mentioned that I happen to know J.Peterman is dreamy?!!


I will not spend ridiculous amounts of money on cosmetics but YES to the real thing, or improving it at moderate prices...but then everything is relative. What is exhorbitant to me may be reasonable to another.

February 12, 2009 6:01 PM
790 10photoviews10videoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoFirst-videoHr-1Hr-5 MissIve said...

p.s.

The Peterman Hemingway Cap on the bust, awesome. Now that's good stuff.

Jalopkin,

Why thank you, sir. Good to 'see' you!

Honor Roll



still thinking about today...


Yesterday's Discussion

I've whiled many an hour beneath the bustling streets of Toronto, not sitting in a subway but patrolling on foot, exploring the underground shops beneath the city center or conveying myself leisurely in temperate comfort.

 

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