What does 'bespoke' mean? BBC News Savile Row tailors have lost their exclusive claim to the term "bespoke". So what does it mean?
James Bond's Tailor Is Ford, Tom Ford Los Angeles Times It's official: When James Bond returns for the next installment of the 007 franchise in November, he'll be ditching the Brioni suits he's worn for the last five movies and taking up with Tom Ford.
Suitmaker Hartmarx Tailors Its Reach Boston Herald Ranking as the largest maker of men’s suits and sport coats in the country at one time was something to crow about. In the khakis-and-open-collar-shirt millennium, such status seems irrelevant, even quaint.
July 13, 2008
I've gone to my farm in Kentucky for the weekend. It's a great place to relax, do a little hard physical labor, and forget about the rest of the world. If you don't have such a place, I highly suggest you get one.
In the meantime, here's a little something that I found for you to read with your morning coffee.
See you on Monday.
J. Peterman
From The Wall Street Journal:
On a recent morning, Romualdo Pelle was in his Madeira, Ohio, shop outside Cincinnati, pinning and tucking a dress for Carol Armstrong, the wife of the astronaut Neil Armstrong. Mr. Pelle has done alterations for the Armstrongs for more than a decade. Mr. Pelle's wife, Maria, makes homemade sauce with Italian sausage for the family.
"Everybody knows me," says the 73-year-old Mr. Pelle, one of a dwindling generation of "master tailors." His A-list clients include Henry Heimlich, the inventor of the famed antichoking maneuver, whose son recently bought him a cummerbund and white tie from Mr. Pelle's shop for Father's Day; James Zimmerman, the ex-chairman of the company that is now Macy's Inc., who recently had Mr. Pelle make a silk-cashmere coat; and Peter Frampton, the 1970s rocker who brought his wedding tuxedo to Mr. Pelle to be restyled.
Wiry and spry with thin, long, fingers, Mr. Pelle has done most of his life's work by hand, from measuring clients and drawing patterns to cutting and sewing fabric. Like most master tailors, Mr. Pelle, when he constructs a suit in house, uses a sewing machine only for the long seams on the arms and legs. His garments match his clients' measurements to within a quarter of an inch. By understanding how his clients stand -- this one with an arched back, that one with rounded shoulders -- he crafts clothes that flatter their bodies, no matter the shape.
The painstaking method of the master tailor, or "bench tailor," as they are sometimes known, is a dying art in the U.S. There are only about a dozen master tailors left who are members of the Custom Tailors and Designers Association, the industry trade group, down from several hundred in the 1950s. The few hundred master tailors who aren't members are probably well past retirement age, says Mark Metzger, the association's president. The group had to cancel its annual "lunch with the masters" two years ago because most of the masters couldn't make the trip to Las Vegas.
New Ashley Judd Plus-Size Collection PR Newswire After success of the original collection, Ashley Judd debuts plus-size clothing line that will be sold exclusively at Goody's.
I Want One of Those Suits Huffington Post As the world prepares to meet in Beijing on 8/8/08 for our quadrennial festival of sport, it seems clear that years of training and clean living will mean nothing without one of those terrific mega-swimsuits.
Perfumed Clothing Could Mask Body Odor Yahoo News Vertically-challenged soccer fans who were left with their heads (and noses) at armpit level in crowds watching the final game of the European Championship tournament Sunday might have wished their taller neighbors wore this new product: perfumed clothing.
This is, of course, something to aspire to. It was a mutual interest in fantastic clothes that brought all of us to this website in the first place. The one thing that we all definitely have in common is that we shop at jpeterman.com. How else, after all, would we have found this forum.
Like most people, I cannot afford bespoke clothing but it is a luxury in which I will, one day, indulge. There is much that is unique about a master tailor's product that cannot be found in most mass produced clothing. I hope to own a jacket with working buttons on its cuffs and wear them unfurled like Jean Cocteau.
Some of the most beautiful tailored clothing in the world can be seen on the pages of Alan Flusser's classic book, "Dressing the Man", my vote for the greatest book on its subject that I have yet read. And there can be little surprise that the photographs of the clothings wearers are among the most legendary elegant and dashing gentlemen of the last century; Clark Gable, Douglas Fairbanks Jr., Tyrone Power, Edward VIII, Prince Charles, Ralph Lauren, Luciano Barbera, etc.
In the meantime, I quiver with anticipation at the knowledge that my wife has just purchased my birthday present (my diem natalis is July 30), Mr. Peterman's "Lawrence of the Hedgerows" British motorcycle jacket. I've been eyeing it for months and, as soon as it went on sale in the current Doldrums owners manual, I started dropping highly overt hints as to what I wanted for my birthday. She said she was delighted that there'd be no trouble figuring out what to get me and went straight to work. I have a wonderful wife!
A few simple alterations can make a huge difference on even mass-manufactured clothing.
In the days of handmade clothing, my grandmother and her brother learned tailoring as a matter of course. Not only did it bring some money in once they had to go to work in the Depression era, but they and their families managed to look sharp even under the bleakest economic conditions.
Grandma brought in a good income with hand-made, hand-embroidered children's clothing made of flour sacks at one time.
When I received my first significant promotion, one of the first thing I did was to go and get measured for some custom made shirts. I am certain that those shirts paled in comparison to the craftsmanship of the masters described above, but they were still very special to me. I don't believe that clothes make the man, I do feel however they they have the power to nudge him in the right direction and a better frame of mind.
It's always so sad to bear witness to the gradual extinction of any fine craft, skill or artistry. You can put pride into making a machine, but that machine cannot then take pride in its efforts.
DPR,
You are lucky indeed to have such a wonderful wife who would buy for you such a jacket. Now that is indeed a garment that could give a man a bit of a swagger. If I though I could pull it off I'd buy that one too. In case I forget, Happy Birthday!
My bespoke suits come from a bench tailor who is well into his 60's. He took on an apprentice last year, so I'm glad to see the skills being passed on and maintained. These suits are timeless, and with the quality of their workmanship will last forever. Plus they come with lifetime "adjustments", which is the nice way to say they will be let out if (when) I expand.
My Uncle Charles (never call him "Charlie") was Master Tailor in England. I was a boy at the time but knew the difference between "bespoke" and that other stuff, the stuff that "we don't mention in polite company".
My grandmother was a seamstress, she worked from patterns, raw materials and sewed everything by hand. She got a Singer sewing machine when her hands started to go...it was a foot pedal operated model.
My mother learned how to knit sweaters from patterns.
Me? I know what I like.
Spinner said...
We have generally slipped far below the Master Taylor level in our society. Kids today don't even know how to sew on a button. I made my wedding dress and even made my husband a... yes, a leisure suit in the 60's that fit very well, thank you. I made my daughter-in-law her vocal recital dress as well. And of that family, when a button comes off, it is my son that sews it back on. He also designs and makes stuffed creatures of all weird sorts for their daughter. The art of sewing is truly a rewarding one and one that those Masters justifiably feel great pride in practicing. It is a shame that such an invaluable discipline is being forgotten in today's rushed, techy world.
Thank you, PeterLake. By the time James Dean was my age, he'd been dead for nine years. But I digress.
Spinner is right that home sewing is certainly a dying art (hence the opening article). I know how to sew on a button but I hate doing it. Perhaps it's ironic that someone so in love with clothes doesn't like to sew. It certainly does not apply in my other areas. I love to eat and I also love to cook. One might associate sewing with cooking, each in its own field. But, for me, sewing has always been a chore.
I greatly admire those who do it well and who enjoy it.
Lovey said...
One of my favorite things about punk fashion: no need for repair.
Simply throw a safety pin on any rip or tear and, viola, it's like new and much more hardcore than before.
[Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols: "I could not sew or darn my own clothes. Lack of money meant no new ones. What does one do when one's sleeve falls off one's jumper? One safety pins it up. That's what one does. And that became a punk statement."]
My mom is quite the modern woman, but she has never failed to make a handmade costume for halloween, no matter how much work it may require [two years ago I insisted on going as Sally the ragdoll from the Nightmare Before Christmas, and my costume had to be exact down to the last detail. That's about thirty different fabrics. The dress is in my closet.]