Yesterday's Discussion

A little village in the Auvergne hopes to become a sister city with Bruni in the Piedmont, in honor of France's first lady.

 

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Business calls me to San Francisco. But since when has a bit of work been something to get in the way of a good time?

We arrive at San Francisco International Airport in surprisingly mild weather and find to our delight that the city has joined the ranks of European good sense: There's a reasonably convenient rail connection to downtown and points beyond.

We check in to our hotel--the delightfully old-school Huntington on Nob Hill--and quickly hook up with a friend who has offered to take us on a tour of the Presidio, the city's emerging swords-into-ploughshares urban miracle. A military installation since Spanish colonization, the Presidio was turned over to the National Park Service a little more than a decade ago.

The de-militarizing process has gone in fits and starts, it seems, so we find a fascinating mix of new development and aging Army infrastructure converted into everything from rental housing to large-scale wine storage.

After a short hike with splendid views along the Coastal Trail and an amble around the restored Crissy Field, our friend takes us to one of his favorite offbeat destinations.

Turns out the Presidio Pet Cemetery has long been one of the few legal places to bury any body in the city. For those with the right sensibility, its fading memorials are a compelling mix of pathos and humor. Don't think I've seen a more noble summation of any life than the epitaph "Oscar -- One Hell of a Weiner Dog."

After that, it's time for drinks at the Presidio Social Club, a former officers club repurposed with a nice mix of historical integrity and foodie earnestness.

Makes me wonder what other gems are waiting to be discovered in the Golden Gate Recreation Area?

 

J. Peterman

 

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31 Members’ Opinions
January 05, 2009 12:21 AM
Citistate_079 10photoviews10videoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoFirst-videoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 Peter Lake said...

Slow meandering walks through Muir Woods does wonders for the senses and the soul as it seems to recalibrate one's perspective of self and nature. It was a gently humbling and soothing place for me. No problem staying in the moment at this place.

http://www.visitmuirwoods.com/location.htm

January 05, 2009 12:38 AM
1807 10photoviewsFirst-comFirst-photoHr-1 Holly said...

San Franciso, ok, but the Pacific Northwest and Seattle makes SF look very dull, to me. I know I am in the minority, but I can never get excited about SF and I have spent a lot of time there.


And the islands. Gorgeous walks and views just 15 mins away.

January 05, 2009 1:30 AM
1807 10photoviewsFirst-comFirst-photoHr-1 Holly said...

YE: Just in passing, we are not all immigrants and opportunists in California. Besides, what is wrong with immigrants? And most of the country is bankrupt. We just admit it.

Where, pray tell to do live. What wonderful part of the country do you hail from??? : )

As for Chihuly...I used to hang out in his foundry in the 70's. I loved his connection to the sea. He has lost his original vision and has become in my opinion, a hack...evidence?? Bellagio Hotel. ARGH!! It is a huge amalagam of prefab glass. But that's just me.

January 05, 2009 4:14 AM
1807 10photoviewsFirst-comFirst-photoHr-1 Holly said...

It is not failed eyesight. He lost an eye in an accident.

January 05, 2009 9:53 AM
293 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-5 rings90 said...

Actually most of the COutnry is Bankrupted ~ Any state that does not have a balanced state  budget is actually bankrupt. You cannot continue to Rob Peter to Pay Paul, One day Peter is going to run out of money also.  To keep borrowing to stay almost afloat is not a way to do business & most of the States are doing just that.

January 05, 2009 10:22 AM
790 10photoviews10videoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoFirst-videoHr-1Hr-5 MissIve said...

 "Don't think I've seen a more noble summation of any life than the epitaph 'Oscar -- One Hell of a Weiner Dog.'"

This reminded me of Evelyn Waugh's The Loved One, also set in California. If you like dark, ascerbic humor, it's a good read, if you haven't already.

Maybe on the plain or train to your next destination. 

The only thing I really remember about San Francisco is Fisherman's Warf. I was there when I was 12. It was the eighties, when San Francisco was in the news all the time as the AIDS capitol of the world. My father bought me a seven-dollar grilled cheese sandwich because the raw, whole fish freaked me out. I remember the vein on his forehead popping out when they gave him the price. I told him I couldn't eat it. "It tastes like AIDS. I'm going to get AIDS if I eat this." Remember, I was 12 and receiving an education in a very small, very Presbyterian town. That's how we all talked. Even the adults.

Thankfully, my father's bulging vein pushed me past my close-minded fears. Maybe next time I'll go crazy and try the fish. 

January 05, 2009 10:50 AM
293 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-5 rings90 said...

So want to see that Epitaph about Oscar & take a picture of it ~ Will put it on my list. Am hopefully going to SF in Sept for this years Film Fest.

January 05, 2009 11:10 AM
10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 Kindlee said...

Every place, everywhere in the World, has its good and bad points. One of the joys of traveling is to savor the different aspects each location has to offer.


When in San Francisco walk around, ride the cable cars, visit Alcatraz, or drive down Lombard Street. It's always interesting to learn more about the history of a city, meet and be open to its inhabitants, look at the architectural designs, and taste the flavors an area has to offer. Chinatown, Fisherman's Wharf and Ghiradelli Square all provide fabulous markets, restaurants, and shops for the sampling.

January 05, 2009 11:24 AM
293 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-5 rings90 said...

my parents were there this past fall for a Firends Wedding ~ THey loved it. Which surprised me I never thought my father would have as much as he did. They can't wait to go back there. They seem to have fallen in love with SF & Vancouver.


While touring Alcatraz an author was there signing his books about life on "The Rock" The autor lived there as a child his dad was a guard or something there & this guy's 1st profession was also a being a prison guard & well you guessed it  My dad was one for what was the Largest cell block in our state for 30+ yrs. they got to talking & well now this author know calls my parents when in the area & they meet up for dinner...   

January 05, 2009 1:44 PM
666 Com-100First-com Agent666 said...

When in San Francisco, one simply MUST eat at The Stinking Rose. Heaven on earth for garlic lovers.

http://www.thestinkingrose.com/ ;

January 05, 2009 1:45 PM
Com-100Com-300Com-500First-comHr-1Hr-5 Georgia said...

Gorgeous, flying into San Francisco...lights, bridge. Eat sourdough French bread with a meal from the sea. And as Mr. Peterman says, much more....


Muir meandering, motes floating in sunstreaks catch my eye, and I stand transfixed among tall tall tall trees; scarcely a birdcall split the silence; I felt I should tiptoe in the silent unending cathedral of ancient? -- they seem so -- redwoods. Time-out-of-mind moments.... 


The Presidio captivates, too, its commingle of old and new; of resolutely different lives; its elegant architecture. And follow the coast to the magical spot where the fault, mother of earthquakes, roils the ocean.  On the beach, narrow even at low tide, black volcanic rocks, upthrust, call "Look at me!" unlike quiet wide-white beaches I knew.


High cliffs, grass-covered, stop just short of beach and rock, as opposite as how the sun sets here, from the other side of our land, where you drive past kudzu-covered chimneys, relics of burned sharecropper shacks. 


I house-sat one wintry month in a glass (yes) house on the edge of that cliff; daily at precisely five o'clock in the afternoon, deer appeared from I never saw where.  At first I held my breath, watching them eat grass, stopping at cliff's very edge, never once falling over, but they weren't threatened by my glassy presence. I walked inside, following as they moved toward cliff's-edge, an occasional one nosing against my wall. All seemed does, but they may've been simply pre-antler; in this I'm ignorant.  At five-thirty, as if by silent agreement, they disappeared into woods up-mountain, into Sonoma County.


Watching the birth of a storm far out at sea, seeing its approach, slow and steady, was another magic.  I'd often done that on the Eastern coast, but this was different in intensity, in hue-change, and it lay low, close to the ocean, unlike storms I'd seen spawned before.


Certainly worth the trip, and Berkeley offers treasures next door to San Francisco. Including the bookstore whose wooden steps are worn by thousands of feet; some, the "Beat Poets" who read there.


 


 

January 05, 2009 2:21 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Agent666, you beat me to it!  Another favorite of mine is Swan's lunch counter and the Fog City Diner.  Actually my list of SF favorite eateries is as long as my arm.  We used to always stay at the Grant Plaza Hotel (sounds nicer than it is, but it was affordable) next to the chinatown gate because it kind of put you in the middle of everything. 


I developed my own SF crash-course-tourist intro walking tour of the city. 


*Start at the chinatown gate and work your way through chinatown to North Beach (little Italy).


*After exploring North Beach (and lunch at the Stinking Rose) head up to Coit Tower and explore the Telegraph Hill neighborhood (lots of great spots to take photos. 


*There is a boardwalk staircase heading straight down the hill from the tower.  Take that and then head toward Levi Strauss square and then straight on to the Fog City Diner (if you didn't eat lunch at the Stinking Rose). 


*From there amble down the Embarcadero to Fisherman's warf. 


*After you've explored the warf area (and been accosted by the street performers), keep walking west on Jefferson til you get to The Maritime National Historic Park. 


*From there take Polk to Ghiradelli square and treat yourself at the Ice Cream shop.


*After getting your calories in walk over to the Russian Hill area and walk down the curves of Lomard street to Leavenworth street.


By this time it should be getting dark and your legs should be burning so just walk back to the hotel and catch a late dinner in chinatown.


There is always so much to do in San Francisco.  It may seem childish, but I could spend hours in the Exploratorium.  MOMA is always good.  If I'm feeling splurge-y, I like to get dressed up and go shopping around Union Square and then go to the Westin St. Francis for dinner (Michael Mina has 2 michelin stars).  They have revitalized South of Market and are now calling it SoMa, they had some really great fusion restaurants down there the last time I went.


SF is about a 12 hour drive from where I live and I have family in Roseville so we would visit them along the way.  And my dad has friends over the GGbridge in Sausalito and Tiburon.  In high school and uni I would make about 4 or 5 trips out there in the summers with my friends.  I took my dad to the Sacramento Jazz Festival a couple years ago and then we went and spent 3 days in SF, it was a lot of fun because he would show me where he would hang out in the late '40s when he was a student at Stanford.


If you don't like San Francisco, come on a trip with me and I'll give you a thousands reasons to love The City.

more on the honor roll
January 05, 2009 2:23 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

After San Francisco we drive up the coast.  Who's with me for a culinary binge through Sonoma and Half Moon Bay?  I'm still saving up for a road trip to The French Laundry with Sir Boyscout.

January 05, 2009 2:29 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

I just realised that in all of my trips to SF I have never once ridden a trolley.  Now we have to go back...Larks?

January 05, 2009 2:34 PM
1807 10photoviewsFirst-comFirst-photoHr-1 Holly said...

Nachista...why does everyone rapture over San Francisco? I mean it is a lovely city and it has lots of fun things to do, but so does Portland, Seattle and Vancouver. And they are less crowded and nearer to nature.

I guess I don't see it because I spent so much time there as a kid. I had two second cousins who were professors (one at Berkely and one at SF State) We used to go up at least once a month.

I am a real Northwestie. Can't beat all that water, and the islands in Puget Sound (Vashon is the island I spent my summers on) And what glorious mountains and hiking. And beautiful all round.


Speaking of Northwest...here's some books:
Primitive Art  by Franz Boas


Indians of the Northwest Coast  by Gerber


Beyond Tradition by Lois Essary Jacka


Here's some of my favorite web sites. I go and drool over all the great art I can't afford.


http://www.pacificeditions.ca/gallery.php


http://coghlanart.com/   ; Check our Norvel Morreseau. I have a couple of his works. I bought them 30 years ago for next to nothing.


Oh, and loved the comment about Lucy my co-typist. She is actually 14 lbs now, so imagine a cat three times that size fighting me for keyboard space.

January 05, 2009 2:45 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Thank you for the links, I am scribbling them down now.  Holly, don't get me wrong, I can find a lot to love about most cities I visit.  San Francisco just seems to offer me something new and exciting every time I go.  I live near nature and its great, but sometimes it is also great to get away from nature and get lost in the marvels of man's modern engineering feats and beautiful architecture.


I've got friends in Portland and Seattle and I also love both of those cities.  My brother is moving to Seattle next month so I plan to be visiting that area a lot more.  In Portland I like the Chinese and Japanese gardens there and I've caught a few shows at the Roseland.  One of the longest road trips of my life had us driving from Utah to SF, from there up the coast, through Redwoods, To Portland, then to Seattle, then to Vancouver, and then back to Utah.  2 weeks of camping in the rain, wet but fun.

January 05, 2009 2:47 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

We found a hiking path in Olympic National Park that was completely covered in this super spongey moss.  We took our shoes and socks off and walked barefoot until the moss petered out and it was back to rockky trail...it was a very interesting sense experience.

January 05, 2009 3:00 PM
790 10photoviews10videoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoFirst-videoHr-1Hr-5 MissIve said...

Chista,

I'm in. (fists)

Our mission: to get Nachista on the trolley, while it's moving. . . 

January 05, 2009 3:09 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Well if you want a horror movie, then yeah let's try to get me to jump onto a moving object, just have the EMTs ready off camera.

January 05, 2009 3:23 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Of course if you win this...


http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv-dream-home-2009-giveaway/package/index.html


San Francisco would be a lot closer.

January 05, 2009 4:08 PM
293 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-5 rings90 said...

Nachista  ~ Well you know I'm in & don't worry no Larks were harmed in our first trip so maybe that luck will hold out... ( And one really could have been seriously harmed by the combo of caffine & garden equipment)

January 05, 2009 6:11 PM
First-com Bubba said...

An item in the San Francisco Chronicle today mentioned a local coffee joint that serves vegan donuts and maple-bacon lattes made with real bacon.

And that, my friends, is a nutshell of what makes this city so lovable.

January 05, 2009 8:03 PM
1807 10photoviewsFirst-comFirst-photoHr-1 Holly said...

Ok Nachista...read over your walking tour. I think maybe you may have something there.


I got to thinking about all my trips as a youth...very culture oriented..the DeYoung, and other art museums, the opera, etc. All things I enjoy but I missed the quirkiness of SF.


The next time I go, I will give your walk a try.


I actually will be in SF next Monday, but just the airport. I will be on my way to the best city in North America...NEW YORK!!! Now talk about quirky ; )

January 05, 2009 8:18 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Holly I understand what you mean about growing up in a place and it not being as shiney and wonderful as outsiders think it is.  The important thing is to EXPLORE.  Go everywhere, try everything.  Do the highbrow stuff and then go do the cheesey touristy stuff, but just DO it.

January 05, 2009 8:24 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Opera?  Nah, I like to go to the Ballet in San Francisco. 


SF airport, I remember getting in on a late flight (about 2am) and my friend getting us lost in some random, scarey neighborhood and when we stopped to ask directions the guy asked us if we wanted a hooker.  Almost as good as the time we got lost in the garment district in L.A. at 1am.

January 05, 2009 8:25 PM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Oh and Holly, when you do the walking tour...take a friend.  Its O.K. by yourself, but 2 or more companions make it a party.

January 05, 2009 9:36 PM
Citistate_079 10photoviews10videoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoFirst-videoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 Peter Lake said...

Georgia,

The City of San Francisco should hire you to write promotions for their visitor's bureau. I wanted to drive, take a train, a plane or even hitch-hike there right away after reading your wonderful descriptions.

You have a wonderful eye to take in visions and a grand voice to communicate them. Very nicely done!


January 05, 2009 10:22 PM
1807 10photoviewsFirst-comFirst-photoHr-1 Holly said...

Georgia...I agree, Nachista would make a great travel writer. And she is so funny too. I think she should definately do some writing.

January 06, 2009 10:52 AM
Bwme 10photoviewsCom-100Com-300Com-500First-comFirst-photoHr-1Hr-10Hr-5 nachista said...

Nah, I'd make a crappy travel writer, I'd get people lost...and not in the fun way, but thanks anyway.

January 06, 2009 1:48 PM
Com-100Com-300Com-500First-comHr-1Hr-5 Georgia said...

Peter, your praise means a great deal, and I appreciate it -- and you, your words, your photographs.  Lovely to be multi-talented.  Eve

Honor Roll


Agent666, you beat me to it!  Another favorite of mine is Swan's lunch counter and the Fog C...

-nachista

Jan. 05, 2009 2:21 PM

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